San Miniato al Monte: Worth the Hike

M.A. in Political Science, European Union Policy Studies
 
San Miniato al Monte

By Katherine Hayes

Each morning I look out my window and watch the sun slowly rise behind the church on the hill. Although Florence is filled with basilicas rich in history, it’s this relatively modest Basilica of San Miniato al Monte that piques my interest. From a distance, the patterned facade sends a mystical, yet holy vibe to my apartment from the other side of the Arno. Maybe I’m drawn to it because it’s the first image of the outside world that I see every morning; maybe it’s because I’m inherently drawn to cultural heritage sites, especially those with profound histories that span several centuries. I get dizzy just trying to wrap my head around the sheer number of people that have passed through its doors over time. As graduate students, we are academically challenged each day in the classroom to think profoundly, critically, and reflectively. I took time out of my busy EUPS schedule one day and visited San Miniato al Monte to do just that. The story of San Miniato al Monte only adds to the church’s mythical character. The basilica was consecrated in 1018 to venerate Saint Miniato,replacing a previous chapel that was built in his honor. In fact, the church just finished its millennium celebration this past April. Saint Miniato, considered to be the martyr of Florence, was beheaded for his Christian beliefs by the Roman Emperor Decius in the third century A.D.. Upon his beheading, he allegedly picked up his head and climbed to the spot where the church stands. This distinct mysticism surrounding the church’s founding only adds to the ongoing story of tradition that pervades the grounds.

The complex is home to a branch of Benedictine monks known as Olivetans. Although the Olivetans currently reside there, they are not the only monastic order that has called San Miniato al Monte home since its construction. Their monastery, adjoined to the side of the church, has passed through the hands of other Benedictine affiliated orders over the centuries. Their presence, combined with the breathtaking view of Florence from atop the hill, creates a distinct feeling when one steps through its gates. It’s quieter and less overrun with tourists than other churches in the city center. It allowed me, as a visitor, to reflect on the space without the distraction of dodging tourists or waiting in long lines. The most striking and spiritual moment of my visit to San Miniato al Monte was the emergence of the monks in the evening to perform their traditional chants and vespers. San Miniato al Monte prides itself on being first and foremost a place of worship and reflection. Hearing the chants echo through the church was stunning and served as a gentle reminder to visitors that it’s not just a tourist attraction. One of my classmates, George Vergara (M.A. 2019), told me that it’s one of his personal favorite places to escape to. When I asked him why, he said, “It’s honestly one of the most serene places in Florence. If the phrase ‘peace and quiet’ had a picture, it would be of this basilica. Aside from its serenity, it gives the literal impression that you’ve time traveled to 1085- the monks all gather in the crypt for an evening mass that is said in Latin and dimly lit candles are the only light. For a real ‘dark ages’ experience, go in the wintertime when you can see your breath. To say the least, it’s quite the eye-opener.”

Another unique aspect of the church is that it has been relatively untouched since its construction. Although fading, the majority of its original frescos remain intact. The church features an ornate facade and sweeping nave. The imposing mosaic of Christ stares down from the ceiling, with San Miniato at His side, as you wander through the church to the crypt beyond the main altar. The crypt is relatively open, but inspires an even greater sense of awe and reverence with its display of Saint Miniato’s relics. As a non-Catholic, the presence of relics surprises me, but has contributed to my greater appreciation for the Catholic faith.

Before I tried to not fall back down the steps leading to Piazzale Michelangelo on my way home, I took a few minutes and wandered through the expansive cemetery behind the church and monastery. The cemetery includes the tombs of important Florentine figures, like famed Italian political scientist Giovanni Sartori, juxtaposed next to a more modern family cemetery. This is clearly a location that Florentines adore and revere highly as they have entrusted the hilltop to be the final resting place for many of their loved ones.

As a student in Florence, I expected to see the magnificence and grandeur of Florentine trademarks like the Duomo or the Basilica of Santa Croce in my spare time. However, I never expected that I would have the opportunity to explore smaller and perhaps more locally enjoyed sites. Everything in Florence has significance behind it. It’s a city rich in culture that can teach everyone something new every day. In Palazzo Vecchio, there is a mysterious phrase on Vasari’s fresco of the Battle of Marciano: cerca trova. As we learned in Dan Brown’s thriller Inferno, it means ‘seek and find’. As a graduate student, my thirst for knowledge extends beyond the classroom. I seek new philosophies, meanings, and reflections of knowledge everyday. As San Miniato al Monte stares at me everytime I look out my window, I stare right back and think of the beautiful history behind it. I have sought its mystique that teases me from afar each morning. In doing so, I found its hidden reverence, charm, and peace. I’d encourage anyone studying or visiting Florence to cerca trova their own San Miniato al Monte.

Katherine Hayes is a member of the EUPS Class of 2019. She graduated in May of 2018 from the University of Virginia with a double major in Foreign Affairs and Spanish.

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Published: Tuesday, November 20, 2018

Last Updated: Thursday, November 2, 2023

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